最云南•红河|建水,另一座你不知道的云南古城(Ⅰ)WildYunnan•Honghe|Jianshui Ancient Town

26cun最云南 2019-10-12 15:25:27

拾光/图文Shi Guang/Author

木小易/译•Mu Xiaoyi/Translator


Jianshui, was named "Butou" in the ancient time and later was called "Lin'an", and now it is known as "Jianshui" which is an ancient town with characteristics and culure.


Travelling to Jianshui is a travel of experiencing Chinese culture. Jianshui locates in the southern part of Yunnan, and it is a small city near to the city I work in, however, I haven't been there before.  Foe an occasional opportunity, I put aside all the tasks at hand and go to Jianshui to find the beauty of the ancient town.


There are three large ancient towns in Yunnan, located in Lijiang, Dali and Jianshui. At Jianshui, the locals prefer to call Jianshui Ancient Town as Lin'an Ancient Town. Jianshui Ancient Town is not that large but it is an ancient town with long history and rich cultural heritage. Therefore, many popular TV programmes, such as Taste by CCTV, a food program called the Twelve Feng Taste by Zhejiang TV and the new season of a reality programme Where are we going Dad 4, have find a view here.

  • 建水古城:守候千年只为与你相遇 

  • Jianshui Ancient Town: waiting here for a thousand years


Compared with Dali and Lijiang ancient towns, Jianshui is unique for its real and plain life scene. Beside the streets here, any old  building is amost a thousand year old. These buildings survived through the history and are not redecorated by modern methods therefore they almost remain the same as before.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


The Chaoyang Building located in the east of the ancient town is the symbol of Jianshui Ancient Town, and it has a history of more than 600 years with a similar architectural style to that of the Tian'anmen Gate in Beijing, as such it is called ‘smaller Tian'anmen Gate’. The locals are very proud of the Chaoyang Building and according to them the Chaoyang Building is built much earlier than the Tian'anmen Gate which followed the style of the Chaoyang Building.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


At Jianshui Ancient Town, we can see the real life of the locals, which is a good combination of modern and primitive styles. The historic sites dispersing at the ancient town are traces of history and the atmosphere of the ancient town is quiet and peaceful.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

  • 米轨火车:一段时光记忆的隧道

  • Meter-gage railway:a tunnel to time and memory

建水米轨铁路是历史上“个碧临屏(个旧碧色寨临安石屏)寸轨”铁路的一段,于1970年后改为米轨,命名为 “个碧石”(个旧—碧色寨—石屏)铁路,被称为铁路的“活化石”。整整一百多年过去,随着时光飞逝,当年的个碧石铁路早已物是人非。如今,这条穿越建水境内的铁轨,已成为人们缅怀历史的时光隧道。

Jianshui meter-gage railway was part of the early inch-gage railway starting at Gejiu, passing Bisezhai Village, Jianshui, ending at Shiping, and it was changed into meter-gage railway in 1970 and was named "Ge-Bi-Shi" (Gejiu-Bisezhai Village-Shiping) railway which is reputed as the living fossil of the railway history. The "Ge-Bi-Shi" (Gejiu-Bisezhai Village-Shiping) railway has changed its function over a history of more than one hundred years. Nowadays, this railway passing through Jianshui has been part of the nostalgic memories of the locals.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


At 2.30 p.m., with the sound of the train whistle, the meter-gage train starts its journey slowly. The yellow coaches and seats in it offer you a romantic journey with a French style.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


I am sitting on the seat in the swaying coach, and enjoying my journey over a cup of coffee.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


It takes me more than one hour in the train to travel from the Jianshui Ancient Town to the Seventeen-Arch Bridge, Xianghui Bridge and Tuanshan Ancient Village. It seems that I am passing through a history of one hundred years and the landscape of each station over the journey is beautiful.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

  • 文庙祭孔:儒家文化博大精深

  • Confucious' Temple:Confucianism is broad and profound


Jianshui is a place with profound influence of Confucianism. Every year, usually around the Mid-autumn Festival, Confucius-commemorating rituals are held at Jianshui and the Confucius Culture Festival has become an annual event here.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


Confucius once said that we shall worship our ancestors as how we worship them when they are alive while worship the god as if he is just in front of us. Confucius respected commemorating rituals. Profoundly influenced

by Confucianism, at Jianshui, Confucius-commemorating rituals are as important as the Heaven Worshipping Ceremony for the locals. During the Confucius-commemorating rituals, people dress traditional Han Chinese costume with ribbons at the waist and flowers at hand. They pass across the ceremony gate of the Confucious' temple, go through the sound of reading and enter into Dacheng Hall of the Confucious' Temple.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


During the ceremony, many disciples are reading the classical works of Confucious' loudly between the aged trees and green grassland at the temple which easily recalls a scene where Confucius once had 72 wise disciples out of 3,000 disciples.

                   拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


700 years ago, Confucianism was brought into Jianshui from a faraway place called Sishui. Meanwhile, with the introduction of Confucianism, the central plain culture and civilization have been influencing on the generations of the locals at Jianshui. Nowadays, people come here with

chrysanthemums in their hands and bow to Confucious in order to commemorate him.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

  • 学政考棚:穿越到古代当回“秀才”

  • Xue-Zheng-Kao-Peng (in Chinese pinyin):to experience the ancient Chinese Imperial Examination System


The ancient Chinese Imperial Examination System lasted for more than 1300 years from the Sui Dynasty to Qing Dynasty which is the an official and basic examination system for recruiting government officers in ancient China.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


The existing Xue-Zheng-Kao-Peng (in Chinese pinyin) at Jianshui is an exam place where Yunnan Provincial Education Commissioner, the chief educational executive in Yunnan Province during Ming and Qing dynasty, would come to at a fixed time to monitor examinations for the candidates from southern parts of Yunnan, that is, Lin'an, Yuanjiang, Kaihua (now Wenshan), Pu'er (now Simao district).

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


I am so lucky to experience the ancient Chinese imperial examination system at one of the places where candidates sat for exams (Xue-Zheng-Kao-Peng in Chinese pinyin) at Jianshui. I am shocked at the scene.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


When I am about to leave the Confucious' Temple, I saw a family strolling here.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

( 未完待续......To be continued)

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