最云南•红河|建水,另一座你不知道的云南古城(Ⅰ)WildYunnan•Honghe|Jianshui Ancient Town

26cun最云南 2019-10-12 15:25:27

拾光/图文Shi Guang/Author

木小易/译•Mu Xiaoyi/Translator


建水,古名“步头”,近称“临安”,现名“建水”,是一座具有特色、文化浓厚的古城。 

Jianshui, was named "Butou" in the ancient time and later was called "Lin'an", and now it is known as "Jianshui" which is an ancient town with characteristics and culure.

墨香古城,上善建水,这是一次深刻人文体验之旅行。地处滇南的建水,是一座距我工作城市不远的小城,却一直未能前往。偶然的机遇,我放下手中的工作,终于在建水寻找到那份诗与远方的夙愿。

Travelling to Jianshui is a travel of experiencing Chinese culture. Jianshui locates in the southern part of Yunnan, and it is a small city near to the city I work in, however, I haven't been there before.  Foe an occasional opportunity, I put aside all the tasks at hand and go to Jianshui to find the beauty of the ancient town.

云南有三大古城,丽江、大理,还有一个便是建水。在建水当地,人们习惯称之为“临安古城”。建水不大,但凭借自身古老质朴的元素与丰富的文化底蕴,迎来了央视《味道》和浙江卫视《十二道锋味》,还有近期刚刚结束的湖南卫视《爸爸去哪儿4》都有来过此城取景。

There are three large ancient towns in Yunnan, located in Lijiang, Dali and Jianshui. At Jianshui, the locals prefer to call Jianshui Ancient Town as Lin'an Ancient Town. Jianshui Ancient Town is not that large but it is an ancient town with long history and rich cultural heritage. Therefore, many popular TV programmes, such as Taste by CCTV, a food program called the Twelve Feng Taste by Zhejiang TV and the new season of a reality programme Where are we going Dad 4, have find a view here.

  • 建水古城:守候千年只为与你相遇 

  • Jianshui Ancient Town: waiting here for a thousand years

       和大理、丽江古城相比,建水古城因其古老真实而别具特色。古城街旁,随便一座老建筑,都有千年的历史。这些建筑都历尽沧桑,没有经过任何现代人工的重新装饰,仍可以看到千年前的模样。

Compared with Dali and Lijiang ancient towns, Jianshui is unique for its real and plain life scene. Beside the streets here, any old  building is amost a thousand year old. These buildings survived through the history and are not redecorated by modern methods therefore they almost remain the same as before.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


古城东门朝阳楼,建水古城的标志,与北京天安门的建筑风格如出一辙,至今已有600多年的历史,有“小天安门”之称。当地人自豪的称:“它比天安门还早,天安门都是仿照朝阳楼修建的”。

The Chaoyang Building located in the east of the ancient town is the symbol of Jianshui Ancient Town, and it has a history of more than 600 years with a similar architectural style to that of the Tian'anmen Gate in Beijing, as such it is called ‘smaller Tian'anmen Gate’. The locals are very proud of the Chaoyang Building and according to them the Chaoyang Building is built much earlier than the Tian'anmen Gate which followed the style of the Chaoyang Building.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


在建水古城,可以看到居民原生化的生活,现代与古朴共存。那些散落在古城四处的古迹是岁月流过的痕迹,而古城大街小巷里流淌着的,是宁静的生活。

At Jianshui Ancient Town, we can see the real life of the locals, which is a good combination of modern and primitive styles. The historic sites dispersing at the ancient town are traces of history and the atmosphere of the ancient town is quiet and peaceful.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


  • 米轨火车:一段时光记忆的隧道

  • Meter-gage railway:a tunnel to time and memory

建水米轨铁路是历史上“个碧临屏(个旧碧色寨临安石屏)寸轨”铁路的一段,于1970年后改为米轨,命名为 “个碧石”(个旧—碧色寨—石屏)铁路,被称为铁路的“活化石”。整整一百多年过去,随着时光飞逝,当年的个碧石铁路早已物是人非。如今,这条穿越建水境内的铁轨,已成为人们缅怀历史的时光隧道。

Jianshui meter-gage railway was part of the early inch-gage railway starting at Gejiu, passing Bisezhai Village, Jianshui, ending at Shiping, and it was changed into meter-gage railway in 1970 and was named "Ge-Bi-Shi" (Gejiu-Bisezhai Village-Shiping) railway which is reputed as the living fossil of the railway history. The "Ge-Bi-Shi" (Gejiu-Bisezhai Village-Shiping) railway has changed its function over a history of more than one hundred years. Nowadays, this railway passing through Jianshui has been part of the nostalgic memories of the locals.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


下午2:30时,伴随着长鸣的汽笛,小火车开始启程,火车时速很慢,米黄色的车厢与座椅,营造出一幕法式浪漫。

At 2.30 p.m., with the sound of the train whistle, the meter-gage train starts its journey slowly. The yellow coaches and seats in it offer you a romantic journey with a French style.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


坐在晃晃悠悠的木头车厢里,来上一杯香浓的咖啡,一边细细品味,一边欣赏沿途的田园风光。

I am sitting on the seat in the swaying coach, and enjoying my journey over a cup of coffee.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


一个多小时,从历史悠久的建水古城,到横卧古今的十七孔桥、沧桑古朴的乡会桥,再到古典民居团山古村,穿越百年时光,每一站都是秀丽风景。

It takes me more than one hour in the train to travel from the Jianshui Ancient Town to the Seventeen-Arch Bridge, Xianghui Bridge and Tuanshan Ancient Village. It seems that I am passing through a history of one hundred years and the landscape of each station over the journey is beautiful.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


  • 文庙祭孔:儒家文化博大精深

  • Confucious' Temple:Confucianism is broad and profound

     建水是个受儒家文化影响很深的地方。每年都有举行祭孔仪式,时间一般在中秋节左右,而孔子文化节也成为一年一度的盛事。

Jianshui is a place with profound influence of Confucianism. Every year, usually around the Mid-autumn Festival, Confucius-commemorating rituals are held at Jianshui and the Confucius Culture Festival has become an annual event here.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


“祭如在,祭神如神在。”孔子本人对祭祀是非常恭敬的。受儒家文化的熏陶,建水祭祀孔子就像是祭天一般重要。穿上传统的汉服,围着绶带,手持鲜花。穿过孔庙礼门,穿过朗朗的读书声,进入大成殿。

Confucius once said that we shall worship our ancestors as how we worship them when they are alive while worship the god as if he is just in front of us. Confucius respected commemorating rituals. Profoundly influenced

by Confucianism, at Jianshui, Confucius-commemorating rituals are as important as the Heaven Worshipping Ceremony for the locals. During the Confucius-commemorating rituals, people dress traditional Han Chinese costume with ribbons at the waist and flowers at hand. They pass across the ceremony gate of the Confucious' temple, go through the sound of reading and enter into Dacheng Hall of the Confucious' Temple.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


其间,古木苍天,绿草如茵,不少学生在此朗诵孔子经典著作,很容易让人联想起当年孔子弟子三千,圣贤七十二人的情景。

During the ceremony, many disciples are reading the classical works of Confucious' loudly between the aged trees and green grassland at the temple which easily recalls a scene where Confucius once had 72 wise disciples out of 3,000 disciples.



                   拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


七百多年前,孔子的儒家思想从遥远的泗水河畔流入滇南建水,给建水带来了中原文明和先进的根,影响着一代又一代建水人。今天,人们手持菊花,向孔子鞠躬,缅怀先人。

700 years ago, Confucianism was brought into Jianshui from a faraway place called Sishui. Meanwhile, with the introduction of Confucianism, the central plain culture and civilization have been influencing on the generations of the locals at Jianshui. Nowadays, people come here with

chrysanthemums in their hands and bow to Confucious in order to commemorate him.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


  • 学政考棚:穿越到古代当回“秀才”

  • Xue-Zheng-Kao-Peng (in Chinese pinyin):to experience the ancient Chinese Imperial Examination System

中国古代的科举制度开始于隋代,废止于清末,经历了一千三百多年。它是我国历史上考试选拨官吏的一项基本制度。

The ancient Chinese Imperial Examination System lasted for more than 1300 years from the Sui Dynasty to Qing Dynasty which is the an official and basic examination system for recruiting government officers in ancient China.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


现存于建水城内的云南提督学政考棚,为明清时期云南省最高教育行政长官,即云南提督学政定期到此,集中滇南片区的临安、元江、开化(今文山)、普洱(今思茅地区)四府学子举行院试的场所。

The existing Xue-Zheng-Kao-Peng (in Chinese pinyin) at Jianshui is an exam place where Yunnan Provincial Education Commissioner, the chief educational executive in Yunnan Province during Ming and Qing dynasty, would come to at a fixed time to monitor examinations for the candidates from southern parts of Yunnan, that is, Lin'an, Yuanjiang, Kaihua (now Wenshan), Pu'er (now Simao district).

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


很幸运来建水学政考棚穿越了一把,亲自体验了中国古代科举制度,现场实在太震撼!

I am so lucky to experience the ancient Chinese imperial examination system at one of the places where candidates sat for exams (Xue-Zheng-Kao-Peng in Chinese pinyin) at Jianshui. I am shocked at the scene.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


临行离开时,看到一家人的温馨一幕。

When I am about to leave the Confucious' Temple, I saw a family strolling here.

拾光/摄影Shi Guang/photographer


( 未完待续......To be continued)

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